This is part 2 of the The 5 Most Common Bike Fitting Problems.  If you would like to view Part 1 first, you can click here.  Again, these fitting issues were not only those I’ve noted solely among my clients, but have observed in the thousands of cyclists I’ve seen out on the roads over the past 20+ years.

As a quick recap, the 5 most common bike fitting issues were:

     1.  Alignment Issues (“wobbly” knees and/or splayed legs)

     2.  Saddle too high or too low

     3.  Poor cleat position

     4.  Saddle tilted up or down

     5.  Reach to the handlebars (either too bunched or too stretched out)

I covered the first two problems in the last article, and I’ll address issue #3 this time around – poor cleat position.

3.  Poor Cleat Position – The foot/pedal interface

Extreme "pigeon" and "duck" toed cleat rotation. Courtesy of Park Tool.There is really no way for me to tell whether or not someone has their cleats positioned properly by simply catching a quick glimpse of them out on the road.  This is especially true when it comes to the fore/aft position of the cleat.  Even when I put a client up on a trainer and can evaluate them up close, I still can’t identify the proper cleat position until I complete a detailed foot and gait analysis.  So, why is it that I’ve even included this issue in this Top 5 list? Well, even though I can’t determine exact cleat placement by a quick visual scan, it’s pretty easy for me to tell when someone is pedaling with extreme cleat rotation, that is to say  the amount of heel in or heel out shoe position while pedaling (the less flattering  terminology being “pigeon toed” or “duck toed” pedaling). 

Most people should have their cleats setup to somewhat mimic the angle their feet point when walking, so cleat position should be set accordingly. The vast majority of cyclists who don’t have a neutral cleat position (shoes/feet pointing straight ahead when clipped in) usually need to position their heels inward (duck toed) while pedaling, while those in the minority,  the pigeon toed style of pedaling, will need to position their heel outward.  Here’s the problem:  many will overcompensate for the amount of rotation needed and ride with very exaggerated  heel in/out positions.  Now, sometimes this is a result of pedal systems that have lot of free float built into the pedal/cleat, and that’s just the way a cyclist’s feet/shoes end up pointing.  Other times it is an intentional decision to angle the shoe in such a fashion, usually in an effort to obtain comfort on the pedals, oftentimes in a vain attempt get rid of shoe hot spots or cramping in the arch or toes. 

   The Underlying Problem

Whether intentional or not, the root problem of extreme cleat rotation can usually be attributed to improper stance width on the pedals, or more commonly,  a tilt in the forefoot known as either varus or vulgus.  I should also mention that these are the very same issues that lead to most of the alignment problems discussed in the previous installment of this article.  The cures for these biomechanical inefficiencies are usually accomplished by aligning the foot and pedal with both the knee and hip; power to the pedals is then transmitted in a straight line directly down through the ball and socket joint at the hip, in a direct path through to the pedals.  Once this alignment is accomplished, very often the amount of rotation needed on the cleat is minimized resulting in much greater foot comfort.  Those with a history of clipping their ankle on the crank arm due to extreme heel in/duck toed pedaling  will finally find freedom from this problem; this holds true even for cyclists who use free float systems like Speedplay Frog or X series (float can be adjusted on Zero models). 

     The Remedy - Laser Alignment

I use a vertical laser to aid in the alignment process, and very often I’ll need to use wedges to cant the forefoot to correct for the tilt mentioned earlier (either varus or vulgus); these can be installed either in the shoe or between the cleat and shoe (see Part 1) .  If stance with needs to be widened beyond the limits of the cleat or pedal’s adjustability range, then one or two 1 mm washers can be placed between the pedal spindle and crank arm.   If stance width needs to be narrowed, it may even necessitate a switch to a pedal system with a shorter spindle length.  Shims (added material that effectively increases shoe sole thickness) may also be in order if I’m trying to correct for a difference in leg lengths or pelvic tilt.

     Fore/Aft Position

As for proper fore/aft positioning of the cleat, I recommend positioning the middle of the cleat so that it is right around the ball of the foot, just slightly behind the first metatarsal head (the boney bump on the side of your foot, just below the big toe).  Make sure both cleats are in the same spot on both feet, otherwise you are creating a functional leg length difference, which can cause all kinds of aches and pains (usually around the knees and lower back).

     Conclusion

As you can see, the correct foot/pedal interface is not just as simple as moving your cleats around on the bottom of your shoe.  Using wedges, pedal washers/spacers, and shims, along with proper cleat placement, are very often the missing, most overlooked, and important ingredients to perfecting your fit and biomechanics on the bike.  I don’t advise trying to correct alignment issues on your own with any of the commercially available products (i.e. Specialized, LeWedge, The Wedge, etc.) – do this wrong, and you are ripe for an injury.   At the very least, your forefoot should be measured to first determine the type and number of wedges needed.  This is definitely one situation where it’s best to seek out professional guidance.   If you’re not in my neck of the woods (Southern CA), shoot me an email (bikfit@yahoo.com), and I might be able to help you locate someone in your area.   
 

Cycling the San Diego coastYou would assume that bike fitters would have a pretty good handle on the most common bike fitting problems/issues encountered by road cyclists.  I'm not so sure.  Now, since I too am a bike fitter, that statement might seem a little odd, but I can't help but mention that the number one problem I observe in road cyclists is often overlooked by others in my profession - poor alignment (more on that later).  The simple fact is that many bike fitters don't spend nearly enough time working with a cyclist's feet, shoes, and cleats during the fitting process (the root cause for most alignment problems).  The conclusion I draw is that many fitters either don't know how to fix these common issues, or simply weren't aware that they even existed in the first place. 

(As an aside, a thorough fitting, which includes the proper amount of time devoted to the foot/pedal interface, is going to take a few hours.  Most bike shops simply can't afford to spend that much time with one client, unless they have a dedicated bike fitting department, and many of them don't.  Further, most of the commercially available bike fitting systems used by shops do not address many of the common foot/pedal/cleat issues.  Don't get me wrong, there are bike shops that have great fitting departments, but they are definitely in the minority.)  

It is also worth considering that bike fitters are usually working with cyclists who have some type of current injury or major discomfort (sore back, knees, etc.), or they are working with competitive cyclists who are trying to go faster and optimize performance.  In either case, these cyclists represent a rather small percentage of the overall road cycling population. It's probably fair to say that some fitters have a distorted view on the typical biomechanical and positional challenges faced by the majority of road cyclists (I'm not not referring to just racers either, but the many thousands of weekend warriors, recreational, touring, century, ultra distance, club, and fitness riders, as well - roadies, all of them, and very few are ever seen by a professional bike fitter). 

One of the busiest cycling roads in all of Southern California, Pacific Coast Highway, is about six miles from my front door, and I'm also a stone's throw away from one of the region's most popular popular biking routes known as the Elfin Forest Loop. The bottom line is that I get to see a lot of cyclists each year.  Thousands. Based on access to viewing these large numbers of roadies, my professional experience as a bike fitter, and over 20 years in the saddle, the following are what I have determined to be The 5 Most Common Bike Fitting Issues:
 
1.  "Wobbly" knees/splayed legs (alignment issues)
2.  Saddle is too high or too low
3.  Poor cleat position
4.  Saddle is either tilted upwards or downwards
5.  Reach to the bars (either too bunched up or too stretched out)

1.  "Wobbly Knees/Splayed legs (alignment issues)
 
"In the shoe" wedges. Photo compliments of Bike Fit Systems LLCThis is the number one fitting issue I observe, and treat, by a wide margin. Poor alignment can rob you of power, cause shoe "hot spots" and/or foot cramps, and can eventually lead to an injury (usually in the knees or lower back). The problem with alignment issues is that most people are simply unaware of the problem.  Even if a riding buddy or team member has mentioned you may have knees that don't track straight (aka "wobbly" knees), most cyclists simply don't have the first clue how to cure the problem. A close cousin to this issue is a splayed leg, a condition in which one leg usually sticks out from the top tube further than the other; this is most evident at the top of pedal stroke, when the legs are closest to the top tube. 

These very common biomechanical issues can usually be cleared up by aligning the pedal with the knee and hip, which can be accomplished with cleat wedges - thin canted pieces of plastic that go in your shoes or between your cleats and shoes (photo above, right); these devices can correct for a tilt in your forefoot known as either varus or vulgus, which are usually the underlying causes of the poor alignment.  Improper stance width on the pedals can also cause poor alignment.  If your stance width needs to be widened outside of the range provided by either the pedals or cleats, thin washers or pedal spacers can be installed between the pedal spindle and crank arm.  Sometimes altering your stance width will even require a switch to another pedal system with a different spindle length. The cause of alignment issues can also be traced to a leg length discrepancy, a tilted pelvis and/or a rotated pelvis, all of which can require any number of different remedies.

If you suspect you have any type of alignment issues, you're best bet is to see a bike fitter who has experience with the various devices designed to correct biomechanical issues related to the foot/pedal interface.  If you live in Southern California, call me to see if I service your area (all of San Diego and Orange Counties, and most parts of Los Angeles, Riverside, and San Bernardino Counties).  I can be reached at 858-414-7093.  If you're out of the area, I'd be happy to try and help you find someone nearby.

2.  Saddle is too high or too low 
 
Measuring knee flexion with a goniometerIf your seat is too high, you can experience pain on the back knee(s), or your hips can rock (causing loss of power). Genital numbness and saddle sores are other potential consequences of a saddle that is set too high.  It's also quite possible that there is too much of drop from the top of your saddle to the top of your handlebars, which can lead to back pain and hand numbness.
 
If your seat is too low, it can also lead to an injury and you can experience pain at the front or top of your knee.  A low saddle can also lead to poor efficiency resulting in significant power loss.  It's amazing how much faster someone will ride when their saddle is raised into the appropriate range. Not only is the pedal stroke more efficient, but often a more aerodynamic position is obtained with the correct height.  Chronic upper leg cramping can also be caused by a saddle that is too low.

You should be wary of formulas used to determine your saddle height, as they can sometimes be way off of the mark.  Your saddle height should be adjusted so that you have a slight bend in your knees when your crank is lined up with the seat tube.  Depending on an individual's flexibility, I will recommend a knee angle of anywhere between 25-35 degrees.  The best way to measure this is with an angle finder known as goniometer - I use the one supplied by Bike Fit Systems LLC , which is where I purchase many of my bike fitting supplies.  One arm of the device is lined up with bony bump on the outside of the hip (greater trochanter), the other with the ankle, and the center of the "dial" (which measures the angle) is placed over pivot point at the center of the knee (see illustration above). 

I'll continue this article by taking a look at the remaining three bike fit issues - cleat position, tilted saddles, and problems with reach to the handlebars.  In the meantime, if you want more information on fitting self help, you can download a free copy of my 9 page ePublication by signing up for my eNewsletter.  The sign up box/link is located in the right hand column. 

Eric Bowen aka FitTechEricWelcome to the BīkFit Blog, and companion site to Perfect Pedaling, the BīkFit eNewsletter.  Here you will find articles filled with information geared toward helping you achieve the ideal position on your road or mountain bike, perfecting your biomechanics, or reducing any pain or discomfort you may experience as a result of poor bike fit. If your goal is to ride faster or farther with greater comfort, power, and efficiency, then these articles should help.
 
I'll also be exploring many topics that should be of interest to cyclists looking to purchase a new bike, which will include comparisons of the wide variety of frame materials available, component reviews, and biographies of some of the world's premier custom frame builders.

Although I am based in Southern California, I encourage you to bookmark this site or subscribe to my posts, as many of the articles will contain information that should be relevant no matter where you live.  Having said that, I will also be using this site a resource, and a hub of sorts, for the road cycling scene in the region, with a special focus on San Diego, my home base of operations; links will be added soon. 

All articles are written by me, Eric Bowen, the fitting technician and owner of BīkFit.  If you'd like to learn more about my services, please use the links in the blue navigation toolbar, located at top of the page.

You can also follow BīkFit through my eNewsletter and on Twitter.  Links to join both of these can be found in the right hand column in the section titled "Follow BīkFit."  

Lastly, fans of European professional bike racing might also like know that I am the publisher of The Virtual Musette: A Road Cycling Blog, which is gaining worldwide recognition for the project known as The Top 25 Cyclists of the Modern Era.  Both fans of my other blog, and those that follow the popular Podium Cafe blog/fan forum also know me as the Team Chef.  Please stop by and visit both, as they are a ton of fun for fans of the sport. 
 
I'd love to hear from you if you have any questions, comments, or feedback, so please email me at bikfit@yahoo.com  

Thanks for visiting, and come again soon.