At long last, here is Part 4 of the 5 Most Common Bike Fit Issues (road bike specific). If you would like to read parts 1-3, they are available in the archives of this blog.

To review, here are the top 5 bike fitting issues:

1.  Alignment Issues ("wobbly" knees/splayed legs)

2.  Saddle too high or low

3.  Poor cleat position

4.  Saddle tilted up or down

5.  Reach to the handlebars (too bunched up or too stretched out)

So, without further adieu:  Reach to the handlebars, Part 1.

I should preface this discussion by stating that there is no such thing as the "perfect reach to handlebars."   Of all the issues I've covered so far, this is by far the most subjective, and complex, of the lot.  A professional bike fitter, no matter their level of expertise, simply can't tell you what is comfortable. There is only one person that can be the final arbiter of your comfort on a bike - you.  I can certainly provide some common sense guidelines, and also let you know what has worked well for many of my clients, but it can take a bit of trial and error before your reach feels just right.  Also, your reach requirements can change throughout the years.  As cyclists age, it is not uncommon to want a slightly more upright position. 

There is absolutely no way to expand on every aspect related to reach within the confines of a single article, so I'll have to break this into two parts.  To give you an idea of the breadth of this topic, all of the following can come into play in determining whether or not you feel too stretched out, or too bunched up on a road bike:

• Core, back, and shoulder strength
• Flexibility
• Weight and girth
• Arm and torso length
• Experience/Years of riding
• Injury history
• Type of handlebars (shape, width, reach, and drop)
• Type of brake hoods and handlebar rotation (tilt of the hoods)
• Style of riding (competitive, touring, century rider, club rider, etc.)
• Stem length and rise
• Length of steerer tube and stem stack height (stem spacers)
• Saddle height and fore/aft position
• Saddle to handlebar drop
• Bike geometry (top tube/head tube length and seat tube angle)
• Saddle tilt

Is your bike too big or too small?

I covered this topic in depth in the last blog post. It is located here: How to Choose the Correct Size of Road Bike. If you haven't already read this article, I would suggest doing so.  It should go without saying that if your bike is too big or small, it's going to complicate getting your reach comfortably adjusted. By the way, it's not often that I see someone with a bike that is too small.  If bike size is an issue, it's usually because the bike is too long and/or the head tube is too short.  Tall folks are usually the ones with frames that are too small, a problem which often goes hand-in-hand with a crank length that is too short (a topic for another day, but here is a great article by Leonard Zinn in the meantime: Why Tall Bikes Often Handle Poorly).   

How do you know if your reach is a problem?

Since I just mentioned that many are on bikes that are too large, by extension, almost all the reach problems I observe and treat are ones related to being too stretched out over the top tube and/or an excessive saddle to handlebar drop.  The most common complaints are pain/discomfort in the following areas: neck; shoulders, particularly in the area in the upper back between the shoulder blades; and the lower back.  Lower back pain can also be caused by a leg length discrepancy, or a position too far to the rear of the bike (overworking the hamstrings/glutes/lower back). Sometimes jarring can also cause all these problems, but usually it's because you need to be in a more upright position.

The sensation that you are always sliding forward, or riding on the nose of the saddle can also be a good sign that you are too stretched.  This can also indicate that your saddle needs to be tilted upwards.  Please visit Part 3 of this series for a closer look at this extremely common problem. 

Reach Guidelines

1.  Saddle-to-handlebar drop

As general rule the vertical distance from the top of the saddle to the top of the handlebars should usually be in the range between 0-10cm (0-4").  Those who prefer a more forward position will probably need a somewhat higher saddle height to get the proper leg extension, and can sometimes be at the upper end of the range.  Also, those with long arms tend to prefer a slightly greater drop than those with average length arms.  At the other end of the extreme, cyclists on small frames (about 53 cm or shorter) will sometimes find that the top tubes are still not short enough for their arms and torso, will need a higher front end, and have to be at the short end of drop range to get comfortable.

2.  Golden reach rule

You should be able to rest your hands on the brake lever hoods during the vast majority of your general purpose road riding.  If you aren't climbing, then you should usually be on the hoods.  If you are always on the tops of the bars, especially on level terrain, then something isn't quite right.  Further, when you are on the hoods, your arms shouldn't be locked out straight, they should have a slight bend of about 10-20 degrees.  If you compete, or do a lot of club rides, then you will probably spend a bit more of your time in the drops of the bars. Now, if you are always in the drops, then there is a good chance the bike is too small for you.  The bottom line is that the hoods should be your default riding position, the tops for climbing, and the drops for drilling it on the flats and descending.  If you aren't using all three positions, something probably needs to change - stem length, stem rise/angle, fore/aft position, and/or saddle height.  Of course, it could be that the bike doesn't fit.  I'll be discussing solutions to fixing reach problems in the next installment.

Too stretched or bunched - upper body angles

There are specific upper body angles that can also help identify reach issues. During bike fits I use a large angle finder known as a goniometer to measure a handful of upper body angles.  These key measurements are as follows:

1.  Shoulder angle while in the hoods

This is the angle formed by the hip, shoulder, and elbow.  If this is greater than 90 degrees, it's a pretty good sign that the cyclist is too extended; less than 90 degrees would indicate a position that is too bunched.

2. Torso angle: handlebar hoods, tops, drops 

This is the angle formed by the shoulder, hip, and a hypothetical horizontal line extended out from the hip over the top tube of the bike.  It is really the best way to quantify how "bent over" the cyclist may be in the various handlebar positions.  Torso angle has a huge impact on aerodynamics - lower equals faster, but too low can lead to lost power and discomfort. I have found that most cyclists will generally fall into one of two very broad categories:

     A)  Experienced/Competitive roadies
    B)  Newer cyclists (less than 2 years of steady riding), touring cyclists, and casual/weekend cyclists; and  those with poor flexibility, an injury history, and those with a large girth (plus size bellies).

Certainly a cyclist's age comes into play, as well, but I usually find that even older cyclists will still fall into one of the two broad categories. Here's what I've found my clients have discovered to be their range of comfortable torso angles:

• Torso angle, hoods position - 33-40 degrees for A category cyclists, and 41-50 degrees+ for B category cyclists
• Torso angle, handlebar tops position- 41-50 degrees for A, and 50-60 degrees for B
• Torso angle, handlebar drops position - 18-32 degrees for A, and 35-45 degrees for B

For an excellent visual of both torso angles and shoulder angles, I found this series of photos from UK based bike fitter, BikeDynamics (scroll down about a third of the page).

Remember, these are simply loose guidelines based on my findings.  Your personal comfort may dictate something outside of these ranges.  Working with an experienced bike fitter who can help you discover your unique riding position is always recommended over using formulas - even mine.  

Coming up in the next issue - the final installment of the Five Most Common Bike Fitting Issues...Reach to the Handlebars, Part 2.



This is part 3 of the The 5 Most Common Bike Fitting Issues. If you would like to see Parts 1 and 2, they are available in the archive section of this blog, located in the right hand column.  
 
As a quick recap, the 5 most common bike fitting issues were:

     1.  Alignment Issues (“wobbly” knees and/or splayed legs)

     2.  Saddle too high or too low

     3.  Poor cleat position

     4.  Saddle tilted up or down

     5.  Reach to the handlebars (either too bunched or too stretched out)

I covered the first two problems in the last article, and I'll address issue #4 this time around - tilted saddles.
 
Poor Saddle Position - Improper tilt
 
I could make this a very short article by simply stating that your saddle should be level. End of story. Of course, things related to bike fit are never so cut and dry. 
 
This is not good:

Nor is this:

Sometimes it can be a bit tricky figuring out whether or not your saddle is level, especially on frames with a sloping top tube. The easiest way to determine if your saddle is tilted is to place a carpenter's level across its length. This method won't tell you by exactly how many degrees your saddle is tilted either upwards or downwards, only whether or not it's level. It's okay if the degree of tilt is off a degree or so in either direction, but any greater than that should be a tip off that something is not quite right elsewhere, and you are setting yourself up for problems.
 
Here is the best way to check your saddle tilt:

Find a small board (about 3" x 8") to place across the saddle's length and get yourself an angle finder (they aren't that expensive, maybe $12-$15). I know it's hard to see the dial in the above photo, but it measures the saddle tilt in one degree increments.  The saddle pictured above is perfectly level, with the red pointer at the zero mark.
 
The previous method is an excellent way to measure saddles that are nice and flat, but what if yours is cupped in the middle? Should you still measure from the nose to the rear? No. Here's how it should be done:

You'll notice that this is the same saddle pictured in the previous photo, and it is indeed cupped in the middle. This type of saddle should be measured for tilt in the general area just a little forward of where your sit bones (ischial tuberosities) rest. Measured at this point, there is actually a 7.5 degree downward tilt - not good; the nose of this saddle needs to come up by 6.5 - 7.5 degrees.

If your saddle and pelvis are tipped downward, your center of gravity is pitched forward and there is a pretty good chance your placing too much of your upper body weight on your hands, arms, and shoulders. Hand numbness, arm soreness and fatigue (usually in the tricep area), shoulder pain, and pain/discomfort between the shoulder blades are all possible outcomes. This situation can also cause too much of your weight to be over the front wheel, which certainly doesn't help with bike handling. A downward sloping saddle can also irritate your crotch, as you will be constantly sliding forward and then pushing back. Lastly, your knees may be too far forward, which can overtax your quads, or even lead to knee problems.

A saddle that's tilted upwards can also cause its fair share of problems, most notably saddle sores, crotch numbness, and even erectile dysfunction in males. It can also lead you to be too stretched out on the bike, or cause your knees to be too far rearward, overtaxing glutes and hamstrings. Again, poor bike handling is another possible issue.
 
If you feel you have to tip the saddle up to obtain the correct reach to the handlebars, there is a very good chance your bike is too big.  It's very common for folks to want to tip their saddles up if they're on a bike that's too long for them, or if the saddle to handlebar drop is too severe; they are trying to keep from being pulled forward on the nose of the saddle, which is probably what was happening when the saddle was level.
 
Many cyclists have their saddles tipped either up or down purely by accident, and once it's brought level are shocked by how much more comfortable and balanced they feel on their bikes.  It's amazing how such a simple  little adjustment can have such a large impact on overall bike fit.
 
Stay tuned for part 4, in which I will cover reach to the handlebars. 

This is part 2 of the The 5 Most Common Bike Fitting Problems.  If you would like to view Part 1 first, you can click here.  Again, these fitting issues were not only those I’ve noted solely among my clients, but have observed in the thousands of cyclists I’ve seen out on the roads over the past 20+ years.

As a quick recap, the 5 most common bike fitting issues were:

     1.  Alignment Issues (“wobbly” knees and/or splayed legs)

     2.  Saddle too high or too low

     3.  Poor cleat position

     4.  Saddle tilted up or down

     5.  Reach to the handlebars (either too bunched or too stretched out)

I covered the first two problems in the last article, and I’ll address issue #3 this time around – poor cleat position.

3.  Poor Cleat Position – The foot/pedal interface

Extreme "pigeon" and "duck" toed cleat rotation. Courtesy of Park Tool.There is really no way for me to tell whether or not someone has their cleats positioned properly by simply catching a quick glimpse of them out on the road.  This is especially true when it comes to the fore/aft position of the cleat.  Even when I put a client up on a trainer and can evaluate them up close, I still can’t identify the proper cleat position until I complete a detailed foot and gait analysis.  So, why is it that I’ve even included this issue in this Top 5 list? Well, even though I can’t determine exact cleat placement by a quick visual scan, it’s pretty easy for me to tell when someone is pedaling with extreme cleat rotation, that is to say  the amount of heel in or heel out shoe position while pedaling (the less flattering  terminology being “pigeon toed” or “duck toed” pedaling). 

Most people should have their cleats setup to somewhat mimic the angle their feet point when walking, so cleat position should be set accordingly. The vast majority of cyclists who don’t have a neutral cleat position (shoes/feet pointing straight ahead when clipped in) usually need to position their heels inward (duck toed) while pedaling, while those in the minority,  the pigeon toed style of pedaling, will need to position their heel outward.  Here’s the problem:  many will overcompensate for the amount of rotation needed and ride with very exaggerated  heel in/out positions.  Now, sometimes this is a result of pedal systems that have lot of free float built into the pedal/cleat, and that’s just the way a cyclist’s feet/shoes end up pointing.  Other times it is an intentional decision to angle the shoe in such a fashion, usually in an effort to obtain comfort on the pedals, oftentimes in a vain attempt get rid of shoe hot spots or cramping in the arch or toes. 

   The Underlying Problem

Whether intentional or not, the root problem of extreme cleat rotation can usually be attributed to improper stance width on the pedals, or more commonly,  a tilt in the forefoot known as either varus or vulgus.  I should also mention that these are the very same issues that lead to most of the alignment problems discussed in the previous installment of this article.  The cures for these biomechanical inefficiencies are usually accomplished by aligning the foot and pedal with both the knee and hip; power to the pedals is then transmitted in a straight line directly down through the ball and socket joint at the hip, in a direct path through to the pedals.  Once this alignment is accomplished, very often the amount of rotation needed on the cleat is minimized resulting in much greater foot comfort.  Those with a history of clipping their ankle on the crank arm due to extreme heel in/duck toed pedaling  will finally find freedom from this problem; this holds true even for cyclists who use free float systems like Speedplay Frog or X series (float can be adjusted on Zero models). 

     The Remedy - Laser Alignment

I use a vertical laser to aid in the alignment process, and very often I’ll need to use wedges to cant the forefoot to correct for the tilt mentioned earlier (either varus or vulgus); these can be installed either in the shoe or between the cleat and shoe (see Part 1) .  If stance width needs to be widened beyond the limits of the cleat or pedal’s adjustability range, then one or two 1 mm washers can be placed between the pedal spindle and crank arm.  Pedal spacers are also available, and these can widen the stance width by an additional 20 or 25mm.  If stance width needs to be narrowed, it may even necessitate a switch to a pedal system with a shorter spindle length.  Shims (added material that effectively increases shoe sole thickness) may also be in order if I’m trying to correct for a difference in leg lengths or pelvic tilt.

     Fore/Aft Position

As for proper fore/aft positioning of the cleat, I recommend positioning the middle of the cleat so that it is right around the ball of the foot, just slightly behind the first metatarsal head (the boney bump on the side of your foot, just below the big toe).  Make sure both cleats are in the same spot on both feet, otherwise you are creating a functional leg length difference, which can cause all kinds of aches and pains (usually around the knees and lower back).

     Conclusion

As you can see, the correct foot/pedal interface is not just as simple as moving your cleats around on the bottom of your shoe.  Using wedges, pedal washers/spacers, and shims, along with proper cleat placement, are very often the missing, most overlooked, and important ingredients to perfecting your fit and biomechanics on the bike.  I don’t advise trying to correct alignment issues on your own with any of the commercially available products (i.e. Specialized, LeWedge, The Wedge, etc.) – do this wrong, and you are ripe for an injury.   At the very least, your forefoot should be measured to first determine the type and number of wedges needed.  This is definitely one situation where it’s best to seek out professional guidance.   If you’re not in my neck of the woods (Southern CA), shoot me an email (bikfit@yahoo.com), and I might be able to help you locate someone in your area.   

Cycling the San Diego coastYou would assume that bike fitters would have a pretty good handle on the most common bike fitting problems/issues encountered by road cyclists.  I'm not so sure.  Now, since I too am a bike fitter, that statement might seem a little odd, but I can't help but mention that the number one problem I observe in road cyclists is often overlooked by others in my profession - poor alignment (more on that later).  The simple fact is that many bike fitters don't spend nearly enough time working with a cyclist's feet, shoes, and cleats during the fitting process (the root cause for most alignment problems).  The conclusion I draw is that many fitters either don't know how to fix these common issues, or simply weren't aware that they even existed in the first place. 

(As an aside, a thorough fitting, which includes the proper amount of time devoted to the foot/pedal interface, is going to take a few hours.  Most bike shops simply can't afford to spend that much time with one client, unless they have a dedicated bike fitting department, and many of them don't.  Further, most of the commercially available bike fitting systems used by shops do not address many of the common foot/pedal/cleat issues.  Don't get me wrong, there are bike shops that have great fitting departments, but they are definitely in the minority.)  

It is also worth considering that bike fitters are usually working with cyclists who have some type of current injury or major discomfort (sore back, knees, etc.), or they are working with competitive cyclists who are trying to go faster and optimize performance.  In either case, these cyclists represent a rather small percentage of the overall road cycling population. It's probably fair to say that some fitters have a distorted view on the typical biomechanical and positional challenges faced by the majority of road cyclists (I'm not not referring to just racers either, but the many thousands of weekend warriors, recreational, touring, century, ultra distance, club, and fitness riders, as well - roadies, all of them, and very few are ever seen by a professional bike fitter). 

One of the busiest cycling roads in all of Southern California, Pacific Coast Highway, is about six miles from my front door, and I'm also a stone's throw away from one of the region's most popular popular biking routes known as the Elfin Forest Loop. The bottom line is that I get to see a lot of cyclists each year.  Thousands. Based on access to viewing these large numbers of roadies, my professional experience as a bike fitter, and over 20 years in the saddle, the following are what I have determined to be The 5 Most Common Bike Fitting Issues:
 
1.  "Wobbly" knees/splayed legs (alignment issues)
2.  Saddle is too high or too low
3.  Poor cleat position
4.  Saddle is either tilted upwards or downwards
5.  Reach to the bars (either too bunched up or too stretched out)

1.  "Wobbly Knees/Splayed legs (alignment issues)
 
"In the shoe" wedges. Photo compliments of Bike Fit Systems LLCThis is the number one fitting issue I observe, and treat, by a wide margin. Poor alignment can rob you of power, cause shoe "hot spots" and/or foot cramps, and can eventually lead to an injury (usually in the knees or lower back). The problem with alignment issues is that most people are simply unaware of the problem.  Even if a riding buddy or team member has mentioned you may have knees that don't track straight (aka "wobbly" knees), most cyclists simply don't have the first clue how to cure the problem. A close cousin to this issue is a splayed leg, a condition in which one leg usually sticks out from the top tube further than the other; this is most evident at the top of pedal stroke, when the legs are closest to the top tube. 

These very common biomechanical issues can usually be cleared up by aligning the pedal with the knee and hip, which can be accomplished with cleat wedges - thin canted pieces of plastic that go in your shoes or between your cleats and shoes (photo above, right); these devices can correct for a tilt in your forefoot known as either varus or vulgus, which are usually the underlying causes of the poor alignment.  Improper stance width on the pedals can also cause poor alignment.  If your stance width needs to be widened outside of the range provided by either the pedals or cleats, thin washers or pedal spacers can be installed between the pedal spindle and crank arm.  Sometimes altering your stance width will even require a switch to another pedal system with a different spindle length. The cause of alignment issues can also be traced to a leg length discrepancy, a tilted pelvis and/or a rotated pelvis, all of which can require any number of different remedies.

If you suspect you have any type of alignment issues, you're best bet is to see a bike fitter who has experience with the various devices designed to correct biomechanical issues related to the foot/pedal interface.  If you live in Southern California, call me to see if I service your area (all of San Diego and Orange Counties, and most parts of Los Angeles, Riverside, and San Bernardino Counties).  I can be reached at 858-414-7093.  If you're out of the area, I'd be happy to try and help you find someone nearby.

2.  Saddle is too high or too low 
 
Measuring knee flexion with a goniometerIf your seat is too high, you can experience pain on the back knee(s), or your hips can rock (causing loss of power). Genital numbness and saddle sores are other potential consequences of a saddle that is set too high.  It's also quite possible that there is too much of drop from the top of your saddle to the top of your handlebars, which can lead to back pain and hand numbness.
 
If your seat is too low, it can also lead to an injury and you can experience pain at the front or top of your knee.  A low saddle can also lead to poor efficiency resulting in significant power loss.  It's amazing how much faster someone will ride when their saddle is raised into the appropriate range. Not only is the pedal stroke more efficient, but often a more aerodynamic position is obtained with the correct height.  Chronic upper leg cramping can also be caused by a saddle that is too low.

You should be wary of formulas used to determine your saddle height, as they can sometimes be way off of the mark.  Your saddle height should be adjusted so that you have a slight bend in your knees when your crank is lined up with the seat tube.  Depending on an individual's flexibility, I will recommend a knee angle of anywhere between 25-35 degrees.  The best way to measure this is with an angle finder known as goniometer - I use the one supplied by Bike Fit Systems LLC , which is where I purchase many of my bike fitting supplies.  One arm of the device is lined up with bony bump on the outside of the hip (greater trochanter), the other with the ankle, and the center of the "dial" (which measures the angle) is placed over pivot point at the center of the knee (see illustration above). 

I'll continue this article by taking a look at the remaining three bike fit issues - cleat position, tilted saddles, and problems with reach to the handlebars.  In the meantime, if you want more information on fitting self help, you can download a free copy of my 9 page ePublication by signing up for my eNewsletter.  The sign up box/link is located in the right hand column.